Hawaii's Best New Spas

Lisa Trottier

We played hard all day, then handed ourselves over to Hawaii's newest hotel spas to see whether they could rub, scrub, and buff us back into loose-limbed bliss. Here are our top picks.
 
1 Hotel Hana-Maui
WHY LAND HERE: The crowds can have the other side of Maui—this is luxury unplugged.  
Way out on the lush, rainy side of the island, a three-hour drive from the nearest shopping center or condo complex, the Hotel Hana-Maui has always held to a keep-it-simple notion of luxury. The 66 airy suites scattered sparingly across its 67 Garden of Eden acres have no TVs, no stereos, and no AC. When you push aside the wall-sized screen doors and step onto your private lanai, all you hear is birds singing and palm fronds clattering in the breeze. Fiercely loyal regulars love the hospitable (and almost unheard-of) free access to the hotel's bikes, tennis courts, yoga classes, pitch-and-putt course, and brand-new dazzler of a spa. Forget the typical businesslike churn of a get-'em-in, rub-'em-down, get-'em-out hotel spa. Here, nine civilized spa suites, some with private gardens, bathtubs with a view, and minilounges for a pretreatment chat, line a breezeway that circles a lush lawn. Freshly buffed spagoers—dazed from extralong treatments that spoil you silly—shuffle into the sun and crash on lounge chairs that look out to sea. THE NEW SPA'S AAAH MOMENT: All the treatments are a cut above, but for an experience on par with the last really good drug trip you had, try the weightless Watsu water therapy, sort of like doing yoga in outer space. (800) 321-4262, www.hotelhanamaui.com, from $375.

2 Halekulani, Oahu
WHY LAND HERE: A view of Diamond Head across the waves, a tub for two, and a restaurant that beats the pants off the Ritz.
The Halekulani makes Waikiki, the capital of kitsch, feel downright civilized, with a staff—from the bellmen to the sommelier to the housekeepers—that calls you by name, a fabulous pool right above the ocean, and a restaurant that smashes the old wisdom about the don't-bother food on the islands. And now the hotel has opened a Polynesian-flavored pearl of a spa. It's not the biggest around, not by a long shot, but it makes up for its petite quarters by putting a little extra juice into its treatments, which start at a leisurely 75 minutes and go up from there. Instead of the usual locker-room steam and sauna routine, visits begin with a one-on-one "foot-pounding" ritual that's a little bit hula show, a little bit Last Supper, a little bit hocus-pocus, but a fitting start for a place that slips surprises in at every turn. A get-serious enzyme facial makes worry lines go poof, at least for the evening, and comes with a neck, arm, and hand massage. The deep-sigh wind-down from such decadence happens on a patio under the palms, with a slushy, minty lemonade in one hand and a skewer of frozen melon balls in the other. THE NEW SPA'S AAAH MOMENT: A complex combo of hot rocks, hot towels, and hot pillows placed just so during a long nonu-oil massage irons out the stubborn knots pulled tight during a morning of paddling into

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