All national park lodges should be like this: historic, yes; surrounded by nature, yes; but also refined, chic, and eco-friendly as all get-out. Thanks to this summer’s reinvention by rustic-luxe masters Passport Resorts (the company behind Post Ranch Inn and Hotel Hana-Maui), Fort Baker is now the best reason for vacationing in town. You don’t even need to leave the premises to have fun, since the fabulous onsite spa offers everything from acupuncture to eyebrow shaping, and there’s a constantly changing roster of classes to keep you entertained. Or you can treat Cavallo Point as a lavish base camp for hiking into the headlands of Golden Gate National Recreation Area, kayaking on placid Richardson Bay, or biking along the San Francisco Bay into Sausalito—in other words, enjoying all the things you so often mean to do, but never seem to get around to.

Sleeping quarters
If you’re old-school, opt for a suite in one of the completely revamped century-old officers’ homes. Crown moldings frame high, punched-tin ceilings, and the fireplaces and built-in cabinets are all original. Throw in a nice big front porch with rocking chairs, and staying here feels more like moving into an idyllic neighborhood than checking into a hotel.If you’re more SoMa-style, a brand-new loftlike suite is a better bet. The high ceilings and urban aesthetic are warmed by the use of lots of bamboo and bold color, and the views from the hillside perch can’t be beaten. Soak it all in from the deck, in the tub, or by the fire.

Adult ed
Watch the calendar, and you’ll see lots of local luminaries appear—winemakers, jam makers, and record setters of all stripes. Start every day with outdoor yoga, then spend the rest of the morn­ing cooking elbow-to-elbow with Quince’s Michael Tusk (Oct. 14–17). The sun-drenched kitchen has the period charm of Grandma’shouse, but is spiced up with all the whiz-bang gadgetry of a five-star restaurant. Commit to a six-day boot camp for women (Oct. 19–24), or explore the headlands with local naturalists (Oct. 12–17).


Morning yoga classes start the day off right.

Humphrey’s heaven
With the gravitational pull of chef Joseph Humphrey’s star power (two Michelin stars, to be exact), Murray Circle has been booked solid on weekends for months. Those who have tried Humph­rey’s cooking at Mea­dowood or Auberge du Soleil won’t even bother

with the menu, but will instead surrender to the five-course chef’s tasting. The evening-long extravaganza includes beautifully presented surprises like local Dungeness crab three ways: crab bisque poured over a mini–crab cake, with Anjou pear–wrapped crab on the side. At the adjacent Farley Bar, clutches of leather armchairs are a comfortably grown-up place for a drink.

The fresh alternative
Come December, if you’re willing to trade proximity for warmth, head south to Newport Coast and check into one of the Resort at Pelican Hill’s ultraluxe beach-facing homes. There’s a golf course, a circular pool, and a spa onsite, and the staff will bend over backward to get you in the mood for the holidays. Picture a horse-drawn-carriage ride with Santa waiting at the end, or potato  latkes prepared in-house by your personal butler. There’s even a profess­ional recording studio where you can immor­talize your own carols.

Resources
Cavallo Point: 415-339-4700 or 888-651-2003, cavallopoint.com
Murray Circle: 415-339-4750, murraycircle.com
The Resort at Pelican Hill: 949-467-6800 or 800-820-6800, pelicanhill.com

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Main photo: Former officers’ quarters now hold stately suites.