“Mustard has lost its way,” says Chris Cosentino, executive chef at Incanto and co-owner of Boccalone Salumeria. Even the most casual observer of the condiment aisle would have to agree. Raspberry mustard, honey mustard, mustard with herbs, mustard with beer—simple mustard is not so simple to find. So when Cosentino wanted a mustard to serve with his cured meats, he did what any sensible chef would do: He made his own. Starting with a base of toasted brown and yellow mustard seeds, which he macerates in a mixture of water and white wine, Cosentino has created a coarse-grained spread that starts off sweet before it blooms to a blissful heat. Buzzing though your skull as it sets those famous pleasure-giving endorphins free, it brings beads of sweat to your forehead even as you dip your knife back into the jar for more. Although it pairs beautifully with the chef’s handcrafted salumi, this mustard is good enough to merit a sandwich all its own.
Boccalone Salumeria: Ferry Building Marketplace (Market st. AT Embarcadero), S.F., 415-433-6500, boccalone.com
